Markets of Shanghai: Part II

15 Jul

Original Post: July 23, 2007

As if day 1 of shopping wasn’t enough, we spent pretty much the whole next day shopping as well.  We started out by going to a fabric market, a huge complex with three floors of fabric stores and tailors.  On each floor there are stalls of vendors selling everything from basic cotton, print patterns, silks, leather, fur…you name it, they have it.  You can get anything you want copied (say, my most favorite pair of pants) in any fabric you want for about $10 plus the cost of the fabric.  This is a spectacular place and while we could have spent all day here, we needed to move on to bigger and more varied shopping experiences.

Next we were off to Yuyuan market, which is a big mall-style shopping area in Shanghai. It has a lot of traditional architecture that has been restored so it looks new, and it is PACKED with people and vendors. The complex itself is huge and the inside has nice air-conditioned stores and restaurants. Most of the stores sell the same touristy trinkets as everywhere else, but they try to charge you 20 times as much as the stalls just outside the complex. We wandered around for a few hours and bought a whole bunch of things.  Again, you have to bargain like crazy for anything like a reasonable price.  Jenny is pretty good at this and knows all the numbers (as opposed to the, oh, ten that I know) so we mostly just let her take care of that. At one point we went inside part of the complex that is dedicated entirely to jewelry. The whole first floor is diamonds, the second floor is jade, and the third was all kinds of beads. You can pick whatever kind of beads you want and they will string necklaces for you.  We went nuts here.  I ended up with at least a dozen beaded necklaces, and that was before we hit the pearl section.

There are so many of these statue vendors, all claiming to have "real antique" versions...but really, they are all plaster or cement.

The market has been nicely updated and is filled with walkways and ponds

There’s a little town just outside Shanghai that is known for freshwater pearls, we are actually going to take a trip there tomorrow, but apparently it’s cheaper to buy the same pearls in Shanghai.  Jenny has a favorite pearl stand so off we went!  Like the bead stands, the pearls can be bought pre-strung or loose and you can have them made into whatever you like – earrings, necklaces, pendants, you get the idea.  They have every variation of freshwater pearl you can imagine, from traditional white to a range of colors that include pink and black (both naturally that way) and all kinds of dyed pearls.  We ended up purchasing necklaces and earrings for pretty much everyone we’ve ever known…the prices are THAT good.  (Incidentally when I came back to the USA I took one of the necklaces to a shop in NYC to have it evaluated and they gave me a valuation that was higher than the price I paid!  If you go to Shanghai, get yourself LOADS of these…)

After we got the jewelry we headed outside to grab a snack and Justin and I decided to brave the street food. We got some sort of fried tofu sqaures that were bland and mushy, but we also got something that resembeled a dough ball that was rather delicious.  It was fried and crunchy on the outside,  but creamy on the inside, sort-of like cheese…? We declined the roasted pigeon and mini-sparrows on a stick.

Market snacks

Markets of Shanghai: Part I

8 Jul

Original Post: July 22, 2007

One of my favorite things to do is to go shopping.  Shocking, I know.  Things are no different here in Shanghai so today we embarked on a massive shopping spree that took us to the best, and most random, that the city has to offer.

The vendors here are huge on fakes.  I’m not really interested in the whole debate of is this right or wrong, it simply is what it is at the moment for me.  If you are strongly against buying fake goods, just skip this part.  Beneath the Museum of Science and Technology lives an enormous underground market of all the fake stuff (luxury purses, North Face stuff, name brand jeans etc).  There are a hundreds of vendors and every one is trying to get you to come in and buy from them. Some of the people grab you and literally try to drag you into the store. Justin got a whole set up of new snowboard pants and a parka (funny when it’s 100 degrees out to be trying on snow stuff…) and a bunch of ‘Diesel’ jeans. I got some shoes, fans, etc.  You have to bargain like crazy to get a fair price, it’s a huge process full of dramatics and hand waving and walking away, but you can get some great deals if you’re patient.  I have managed to learn to say ‘how much?’ ‘too much!’ and some numbers, so I can haggle a bit with Jenny and John’s help.  It is exhausting to be there for too long, but it’s amazing how cheap some of it can get. Some of the ladies make a big production of being mad that you were able to bargain them down so much and they yell that you are too clever and not to come back!

To end our shopping extravaganza we went to an older market on Dongtai Lu. I got TONS of stuff here, it’s where they have some more traditional goods, still touristy, but we are still almost the only western people everywhere we go so it doesn’t seem as touristy as I suspect it really is. It reminded me more of a flea market that has a lot of random useless stuff, but some key special pieces tucked in if you are patient enough to look for them.  This place was harder to bargain at, and I didn’t do as great of a job, but I still got some really interesting things – these carved wood hanging pieces that mean (as everything seems to here) “bring you health and riches”, a combination lock that is blocks of Chinese characters (had to get the lady to write the combo really clearly), and a bunch of unusual gifts for people…no Chinatown trinkets here 😉

The market on Dongtai Lu

Jenny checks out a vendor

Rocking Out, China Style

1 Jul

Original Post: July 21, 2007

We are living it up here in Shanghai…seriously, it’s almost criminal.

Last night, after a long day of wandering around the city, we went to New Heights for dinner. It’s a super fancy (read, normal NYC prices for dinner) restaurant on the top of a building that overlooks the Bund. The Bund is a big promenade of sorts that looks out over the river.  There are many different restaurants and bars and was crowded with all kinds of people, tourists and locals alike.   Food was great, if less than traditionally Chinese, and after we had some drinks on the deck and watched the boats roll on by. At night Shanghai is crazy because everything is all lit up with neon! The highways are outlined in flashing blues and greens, many of the buildings are outlined, and the boats go totally all out.  I have never seen anything like it, and I have to say, I totally love it.

Looking out across the river.

After dinner we went to a bunch of interesting bars, the first was Binjiang, aka the Ice Bar. It’s like a huge meat freezer and the whole inside is made of ice.   They give you a big North Face parka so you don’t freeze.  I must say it’s a bit of a shock to the senses to be outdoors in 100+ degree heat and then put on a parka and enter a room of freezing ice.  In any case, the only drinks Binjiang serves are shots of vodka.  Our driver (Mr. Shen) came in with us where he thankfully declined to have a shot with the table next to us.

Brrrr!

The next bar was Jade on 36, which is in the Shangrila hotel.  Again, super fancy, full of tourists and is fully NYC prices. Jade 36 has these crazy bathrooms that were like big capsules filled with neon lights.  I half expected to be transported somewhere else while inside.

Restroom aglow!

In the lower level of that same hotel is another bar called Bat. It is way more mellow, and has a karaoke thing going on, but they have a couple of girls on standby who sing when no one else wants to. We were pretty trashed at this point so of course John and I karaoked some Red Hot Chili Peppers, which went a little better than the time Justin and I attempted a Bon Jovi song a few years back.  Near the end of the evening, sometime closer to dawn than dusk, Jenny and I took shots that were on fire because really, nothing says a good night on the town like setting your esophagus aflame.

Are you sure this is safe?

China!

24 Jun

Original Post: July 19, 2007

We made it to China!  It seemed like a million hours of flight, but somehow, we arrived in Shanghai.  Our luggage filled with American food for Jenny and John also arrived, and I have to say I’m amazed by this since we had 4 (yes FOUR) connecting flights to get here.

So far everything is going well, Jenny and John have a super phat apartment in the Pudong district of Shanghai.  They also have a driver.  Yeah, a driver.  Stoopid fancy.  Yesterday we went to all these crazy specialty stores that I have no idea how anyone ever figures out where they are to begin with, but once someone finds them the word spreads and you can get a little card telling you how to get there. Basically, the driver would drop us off on the side of some random road and we would go down an ally, maybe into some random run-down building (keep in mind there are NO SIGNS that there is a store) and through some doorways and up some stairs and through another random door and then all of a sudden you are in a room full of silk, or purses or jeans, or winter coats or whatever. Totally crazy…

Justin tries on some jeans

Rocky Mountain Rapids

17 Jun

Original Post: July 16, 2007

Last week we headed out to do some touristy rafting, which I somehow had never done despite living my entire life surrounded by these rivers.  In all honesty, I was a bit nervous since I might in fact be the clumsiest person alive and I was absolutely certain I was going to fall out of the raft.  I consider it nothing short of a small miracle that I managed to keep myself inside the raft the entire trip. We only did a half day trip that stopped at Mishawaka…serious blast from the past there, I spent many a high-school evening at concerts there and have some fond, if fuzzy, memories.  We did class III and V rapids, which were not nearly as freaky as I expected, but one of the rafts behind us nearly tipped completely over when they mis-navigated a rock.  We went ahead and bought the tourist pictures.

I'm the one getting soaked

Paddle!

Paddle some more!

Rocky Mountain High

10 Jun

Original Post: July 13, 2007

My family is really close to Rocky Mountain National Park, so we decided to head up there for a hike. We only were able to go a few miles before it started looking like serious rain, so we headed back down the trail and decided to just drive around for a bit since it was Justin’s first time in the park and we weren’t sure if we’d make it back there this trip. You can go all the way to the very top of the peaks and there is still snow! We went up another old dirt jeep road and then took a quick hike to what seemed like the top of the world. It’s crazy how much the temperature changes with the altitude…95 degrees at the bottom, 65 degrees at the top!

 

Justin and the 'Very Big Rock'

Hiking was going well at this point

Valley in RMNP

At the top

Looking out across the mountains

The Last Day of Ouray

3 Jun

Original Post:  July 9th, 2007

The last full day we were in Ouray we went to go see Box Canyon Falls, and Yankee Boy Basin, both right outside of the town. Box Canyon Falls is a tiny little hike away from town that leads to a waterfall.  The water flows through these huge holes in the rock that are almost sculpture like.  You can get pretty close to the falls and there are some great views through the narrow little canyon.

 

Views through the rocks

Rainbows in the falls

Yankee Boy Basin is a valley in between some of the bigger mountains and you have a take a crazy little jeep road to get there. I thought we were going to fall off the cliff pretty much the whole time and Justin, who was sitting cliffside,  was actually attempting to climb over me to get away from the edge.  In the early summer, which is July this high up in the hills, the wildflowers are stunning and the canyon is filled with colorful flowers.  The snow melt is at its peak during this time as well so the rivers are gushing and waterfalls are plentiful.

The road to Yankee Boy Basin...and we thought the road to Silverton was scary!

Waterfalls in the Basin

The Columbine - Colorado's state flower

Mountain meadows in bloom

Look Ma, No Guardrail!

27 May

Original Post: July 7, 2007

Want to give yourself a heart attack?  Take a drive to Silverton, which is a tiny ‘old west’ style town about 40 miles south of Ouray. You have to go over a huge pass to get there and there is no guardrail and no room for error.  The pictures below do not do justice to how flippin’ steep the cliff is . It’s all tight little switchbacks with no more than 6 inches of shoulder room and it’s terrifying. I can just imagine the tourists from flat lands (say…Nebraska or some such place) getting on this road and just freaking out.

The road is the slice about halfway down the mountains on the left.

Silverton was cute, but the main reason we went is because there is an old narrow-gauge train that you can take to Durango. It’s one of the only trains of its kind left, and it’s old and little and still runs on coal. As a side note, if you happen to ever venture out onto such a train, it’s not the best plan to wear white linen pants, not that I’m speaking from experience or anything. That whole ‘runs on coal’ bit pretty much means that it blows smoke, ash and embers all over the passengers, so we were all quite dirty when we finally got there. The cars are open and it takes 3 1/2 hours to go about 35 miles, which was an hour and a half too long for me, but the views are amazing.

Downtown Silverton

Remember, this was 2007. Silverton has a sense of humor.

Old-school, coal powered, narrow-gauge railroad.

Views from the train.

More views from the train.

4th of July Firemen

20 May

Original post: July 5, 2007

The 4th of July in Ouray is total madness. We started by going to a crack-of-dawn pancake breakfast to raise funds for the local search and rescue teams.  Stellar pancakes and the whole town comes out so if you aren’t there early, well let’s just say the last few people got only the leftover nubbins of some of the best bacon I’ve ever had.   Following the breakfast there was a dinky, yet somehow charming, little parade and then finally, the fire hose fights.

One of the more popular "floats"

The parade route was packed!

It’s a tradition that every year the fire department recruits teams of people who want to compete in a reverse tug-of-war of sorts. The teams of two suit up in their fire-gear complete with full coverage helmets and duct tape around their wrists to keep their sleeves down.  The whole town gathers in the main intersection to watch the teams attempt to blow each other off the road with the fire hoses. It’s got to be one of the craziest things I’ve ever seen, so I’ve uploaded some pictures and clip of it to youtube for your viewing pleasure.

Soaking the crowd before the game begins.

Our view from a nearby roof

These guys were getting pounded!

Happy Little Trees

13 May

Original Post: July 3, 2007

I’ve always looked at those forest and mountain paintings and thought “well, that just doesn’t look very realistic.” Apparently I was wrong. There is a little lake near the cabin and we took the dogs down for a swim on Monday. Neil has a rowboat so we hauled that thing out into the water and as J and I were rowing around I had the distinct thought that I might have left this world and was now rowing about in a Bob Ross painting. Seriously, it was so pretty it just looked fake. The pictures I took do not do it justice.

Lake Lenore. Ouray, Colorado.

Biggest. Dandelion. Ever.